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Bird Cages
Article Summary: How to pick the right cage for your bird.
Bird Cages
Probably no issue with birds creates more controversy or more opinions than bird cages. They range from the folks who insist that a bird should never be caged, to those that insist that a full time caged bird is just as happy as one that is not in a cage. As with everything, the real solution is probably somewhere in the middle. In this article, we’ll try to deal with what to look for in a quality cage, cage size, cage design, cage layout, cage accessories and some general cage comments. It’s a big job so let’s get started!
A cage for your bird should be the largest quality cage you can find that won’t hurt your bird. By that I mean that it won’t do anyone any good to put a parakeet in a macaw cage and have the parakeet just slip through the bars! That’s why one of the primary considerations should be bar spacing. I have actually seen a conure (a medium sized bird) squeeze through a cage with bar spaced only 5/8” apart! Bar spacing can run as high as 1 1/2” which would only be suitable for a large cockatoo or macaw. The best advice is to make sure that your bird cannot get it’s head between the bars. Obviously, this could be very dangerous for your bird. Mid size to large birds should have a spacing between 3/4” and 1 1/2”. Remember that different manufacturers measure the space differently. Some measure from the middle of one bar to the middle of the next bar and some measure the actual space. Use good judgement as always. Another thing to keep in mind is that, while curvy decorations, metal leaves and such may look nice, they are places where a bird could easily catch a claw or leg and do some real damage. Make sure there are no places where a bird could accidently get themselves caught.
A cheap cage is worse than no cage at all. “Chicken wire” cages can actually be extremely dangerous to a bird. They contain zinc and could lead to zinc poisoning if your bird is inclined to chew (and most birds are). Brass is another metal to be careful of because brass is made with zinc. There are some cages made to look like brass but are not. Make sure you know what your cage is made of.
The drilled tubular cages need to be examined carefully as there are often holes left between the supports and the bars of the cage. These holes can trap food and other particles that can rot and produce dangerous bacteria and can also lead to rusting of the cage. Some manufacturers try to fill or weld these holes so make sure all of the holes are filled before you buy. If there are large welds, a bird can chip these off and not only swallow the chip but now you’ve got a hole to deal with as well. Personally, I don’t like this type of construction.
Look carefully at the cage’s finish. A lot of cages these days are made with a powder coated finish. They sandblast the wrought iron to make it rough and then apply a powder type paint electrostatically to make it flow evenly. This gives the cage a very long lasting and durable finish. All of my personal cages have this type of finish and I’ve been very pleased with it. It doesn’t rust (another huge danger for birds) and I have never had one chip or flake although I suppose that could happen if the finish is improperly applied.
While we’re talking about cages in general, let me mention a pet peeve of mine. Cage latches. I avoid spring type latches at all costs as it’s very easy for a bird to get caught in one of these. Mo, our umbrella cockatoo, is a master escape artist. I put her in a so called “escape proof” cage and she was out in just minutes! I prefer latches that have the ability to add a lock for added safety. Mo hasn’t been able to learn to pick a lock yet but I’m certain she’s working on it!
Finally, do not skimp on perches! I prefer natural wood with manzanita being my favorite. It looks good, last long and the irregular shapes are better for their feet than something that’s the same diameter all around. Keep in mind that your bird will most likely chew the perch up so if there’s any hardware involved, make sure it’s stainless steel. Do not use hardware that has zinc in it. Sandpaper type perches are good if your bird doesn’t get regular trimming of their claws. Mo is an expert at sharpening her claws and she actually uses the perch to make them extra sharp! In general though, anything that helps trim the claws are good and I try to have one short perch in the cage to do exactly that.
Cage Design and Layout
OK, you’ve picked out your bird and now you need a cage. There are more cages and designs than there are birds so how do you choose? A lot of this information is personal preference and based on over 30 years of keeping birds. Many “experts” and bird owners will disagree with me and that’s OK, they’re just wrong! You might end up spending as much or more on the cage than you do on the bird so take your time and get the right cage. If you can’t afford a large cage, then I don’t think you should get the bird. The cage is your bird’s home and your bird deserves as nice a home as you can provide, particularly if you’re going to be keeping your bird in the cage for long periods of time.
Most birds are also climbers so I like cages that have both horizontal and vertical bars which make it easier for your bird to climb around. I like to design a flow inside the cage so your bird can climb from the side of the cage to a perch to a toy over to the swing and back to the side again. I like only natural tree branches. You can make your own but stay away from cherry and oak since they can be toxic to birds. Do not overcrowd the cage. Your bird needs to be able to completely stretch his wings without hitting anything. I like to have at least two toys in the cage and I switch them out every few weeks since they do tend to get bored with them. I always have a half dozen or so toys on hand at all times. If you can fit it, a swing is great for birds and gives them something to do. A lot of times, the swing is where they’ll take their naps.
The following is what I recommend as a MINIMUM size cage for different birds:
Finches: 12 X 24 per pair
Parakeets: 12 X 24 per pair
Lovebirds: 12 X 24 per pair
Cockatiels: 18 X 18 (one bird)
Small Conures: 20 X 20
Large Conures: 24 X 24
Amazons: 24 X 24
Cockatoos: 24 X 24
Macaws: 30 X 48
Bowls and feeders should be easy to clean as your bird will make a mess of them. Change and clean them frequently, especially the water dish. Birds tend to drop a lot of things in their water and it can foul very quickly. Stainless steel is the best but plastic can also work well.
Finally, I’d like to talk for a minute about cage shape. I hate round cages and don’t believe a bird should ever be put in a round cage. There are several reasons for this but the main one is security. Most birds like the idea of a corner. It’s a safe place for them as it reduces the area they have to watch for danger. A round cage has no corners. It’s that simple. For the same reason, I don’t particularly like dome tops. Corners are very important for birds and without them, they sometimes have trouble feeling secure.
Article Source: http://www.upublish.info
About the Author:
Cliff Hagberg
About the Author
Cliff Hagberg has worked with birds for over 30 years. He can be reached at info@birdcityusa.com. He is the owner of Bird City USA, an internet store for bird supplies that also supports a parrot rescue.
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